Outdoor lighting has one job. It must stay on and stay safe when the weather changes. Rain hits. Dust builds up. Temperatures swing. Cables get tugged. If your strip light fails, you end up replacing it, resealing it, and doing the same work twice.
Outdoor COB LED Strip Lights solve a lot of these problems because of how they are built. COB means chip on board. Instead of seeing separate LED dots, you get a continuous line of light. That matters outside because you often see the light source directly. Under a step edge, along a wall cap, or on a pergola beam, dotted light looks messy. A clean line looks finished.
COB strips also spread light better. That helps with safety lighting. A pathway lit with smooth light feels easier on the eyes. It also helps your camera doorbell and CCTV because the light is more even. You get fewer harsh hot spots and fewer dark gaps.
I learned this the hard way. I first tried outdoor strips with visible dots under a low garden wall. Every dot reflected in the wet stone after rain. It looked like a row of tiny headlights. I replaced them with a COB outdoor LED tape light and the difference was immediate. The wall looked like it had a soft glow, not a string of points.
COB vs Standard LED Strips for Outdoor Use

What you see at night
A standard strip can look bright, but you often see the separate LED points. COB strips look like one solid bar of light. That is the main reason people switch.
How the light behaves on surfaces
Outside surfaces are rough. Brick, stone, render, wood grain. Dotted light makes shadows look jumpy. Seamless illumination from COB makes surfaces look calmer and more natural.
Where COB shines
COB outdoor lighting strip works best for these jobs.
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Under step lips and stair nosings
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Along garden paths with low glare
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Under coping stones on walls
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Pergolas and roof edges
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Around doors and exterior features
If you want a strong beam to throw light far, use a wall light or a flood light. A strip is for lines, edges, and glow.
Weather Resistance Basics You Need to Know
Outdoor lighting fails for simple reasons. Water gets in. Salt air eats metal. Sun breaks down plastic. A good waterproof COB LED strip reduces these risks, but only if you understand the protection rating and the weak points.
IP ratings in plain words
Many outdoor strips use an IP rating based on the IEC 60529 standard. The first digit is for dust. The second digit is for water.
Here is the practical meaning.
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IP65 means protected from dust and protected from water jets. This works for sheltered areas like under an eave.
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IP67 means dust tight and protected when temporarily submerged. This works for heavy rain and splash zones.
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IP68 is for longer submersion. This is only needed if the strip sits in water, like some fountain builds.
Most outdoor installs do not need full submersion protection. They need splash protection, UV resistance, and sealed ends. IP67 is a strong target for many homes.
The real weak point is not the strip
The weak point is the cut end and the connector. Water finds gaps. It travels along copper and wire strands. If you install a waterproof COB LED strip and leave the end unsealed, you still lose.
When you plan your install, treat every connection like a small plumbing joint. Seal it correctly.
High Brightness Without Harsh Glare
Outdoor spaces need enough light to walk safely, but you do not want harsh glare. COB strips give high brightness while spreading it out. The light looks smooth, not spiky.
To keep it comfortable, place strips where you cannot see the LED surface directly.
Good placements include.
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Under a step overhang so the light washes down
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Under a handrail so it lights the path
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Behind a lip or trim piece on a wall
If you mount a strip at eye level with the light facing out, any strip will feel bright and annoying. Angle and concealment matter more than raw brightness.
Picking the Right Waterproof COB LED Strip

You are not just choosing a strip. You are choosing a full system. Strip, power supply, wire, control, mounting, sealing. If one part is wrong, the whole install suffers.
Choose the right voltage
Outdoor runs often need longer lengths. Longer lengths benefit from higher voltage systems.
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12V works for short runs. Voltage drop becomes a problem sooner.
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24V works for longer runs and is common for outdoor lines.
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48V works for very long runs when designed correctly. It reduces voltage drop further.
Voltage drop shows up as dim light at the far end. If your path run is long, plan power injection points, or choose a setup designed for long runs. That is why people look for a long lasting COB LED strip for outdoor installations with a proper driver and correct wire size.
Pick a protection level that matches the location
Ask one question. Will the strip get direct rain.
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Direct rain or splash zone: aim for IP67 level protection and sealed ends.
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Covered area: IP65 can be fine if the ends and connectors are protected.
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Ground contact: avoid direct burial unless the whole system is rated for it.
Check heat handling
Outdoor strips live in tricky places. On metal, heat moves away fast. In sealed channels, heat can build up. Heat shortens LED life.
Use an aluminium channel when possible. It also makes the light line look cleaner and protects the strip from impact.
Make sure the coating holds up to sunlight
Some silicone coatings last better outdoors than cheap clear coverings. Sunlight breaks down low quality coatings and they yellow, crack, or go sticky.
If the strip will see sun, ask for UV stable materials or use a channel with a diffuser.
Where to Use an Outdoor COB Lighting Strip

Gardens
You can use an outdoor COB lighting strip to highlight edges and features without turning your garden into a stadium.
Common garden spots.
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Under bench edges
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Under planter lips
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Along a low wall cap
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Under a deck edge
Keep the light low and hidden. Your garden looks calmer and you keep glare out of your eyes.
Pathways
For paths, the goal is safe steps and clear edges. Put light along the border, not pointed at your face.
A COB outdoor LED tape light under a handrail or under the edge of a path border works well. It helps you see the line of the path in rain and fog.
Building exteriors
For exteriors, strips look best when they wash a surface. Put them under a small ledge and point them down the wall. The texture shows up. The building looks sharper without harsh glare.
Tools and Materials You Actually Need
Keep it simple. Do not start cutting until you have the right sealing and mounting parts.
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Tape measure
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Outdoor rated power supply in a weatherproof enclosure
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Correct gauge wire for the run length
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Heat shrink with adhesive lining for joints
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Silicone end caps and proper outdoor sealant
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Aluminium channel and clips if you can use them
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Cable glands for any enclosure entry
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A basic multimeter for checks
A multimeter saves time. You can confirm voltage at the start and end of the run before you seal everything.
Step by Step Outdoor Installation Guide
Step 1: Map your run
Walk the area at night if possible. Mark where you want light and where you want darkness. Outdoor lighting looks better when you leave some shadows.
Measure the total length. Mark where power will enter. If the run is long, plan a second feed point.
Step 2: Choose a safe power location
Outdoor drivers need protection. Put the power supply in a ventilated weatherproof box, or indoors with wiring routed out through a sealed entry.
Keep mains wiring work for a qualified electrician if required in your area. Outdoor electrics are not a place for guesswork.
Step 3: Dry fit the strip and channel
Before peeling adhesive, place the strip and channel in position. Check corners and bends. COB strips bend, but sharp corners still stress the copper.
Use gentle curves. If you need a sharp corner, use a corner connector that is rated for outdoor use, then seal it.
Step 4: Mount the channel
Clean the surface. Use screws or clips where possible. Adhesive alone can fail outdoors, especially on rough stone or damp wood.
Step 5: Cut only where you must
Cut only on the marked cut points. Then seal immediately.
If you cut a waterproof COB LED strip, you must reseal that end with the correct cap and sealant. Let the seal cure fully before exposing it to rain.
Step 6: Make connections and seal them
Use proper connectors or solder joints, then cover with adhesive lined heat shrink. Add a second outer layer if the joint sits in a splash area.
Waterproof means sealed. Do not rely on a loose plastic clip connector outdoors.
Step 7: Test before final sealing
Power it on. Check brightness from end to end. Check for flicker. Check for color consistency. Then leave it on for 20 minutes and feel for hot spots.
Only after this test should you finish sealing and closing enclosures.
Step 8: Final tidy and strain relief
Secure cables so a tug does not pull on the strip. Add strain relief near joints and inside boxes. Most outdoor failures start with movement.
A Real World Review After Using Outdoor COB Strips
I have used strips in three outdoor spots. Under steps, along a low wall, and under a pergola beam.
The steps were the biggest win. The smooth line of light made each step edge clear without glare. In wet weather the light stayed readable because it did not bounce as hard as point LEDs.

The wall install looked more premium. That sounds like a big word, but the change was simple. The wall stopped looking dotted. It looked like a clean wash of light.
The pergola install taught me a lesson. I first placed the strip where you could see it from the seating area. It felt too bright. I moved it back behind the beam edge. Same strip, same brightness, better placement. The space became comfortable.
If you want a long lasting COB LED strip for outdoor installations, your install matters as much as the strip. Good sealing, good heat handling, and smart placement decide the outcome.
For sourcing, I have seen people use Atom LED when they want COB options that fit longer outdoor runs and common outdoor use cases. The key is to match the strip rating and the driver to your exact layout, then seal every cut and joint.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Leaving cut ends unsealed
One open end can ruin a full run. Seal every end.
Mounting on dirty or wet surfaces
Adhesive fails. Clean and dry the surface, then use clips or channel.
Using an indoor power supply outdoors
Even if it sits under a cover, moisture finds its way in. Use an outdoor rated enclosure and fittings.
Ignoring voltage drop
If your far end is dim, your plan is wrong. Fix it with higher voltage, thicker wire, or power injection.
Pointing the strip at eye level
Hide the strip and bounce the light. Your eyes will thank you.
Maintenance Tips for Outdoor COB LED Tape
Outdoor lighting is not set and forget. Do quick checks a few times a year.
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Check seals for cracks
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Check channels for water pooling
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Clean dirt off diffusers
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Confirm the driver stays dry and ventilated
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Look for dim sections that hint at a bad joint
If you catch problems early, you avoid full replacement.
FAQs
1) Are Outdoor COB LED Strip Lights bright enough for a path?
Yes. When you mount them under an edge or rail, they light the walking area evenly and keep glare low.
2) What IP rating should I choose for a waterproof COB LED strip outside?
For direct rain and splash zones, IP67 is a strong choice. For covered areas, IP65 often works if you seal ends and connectors well.
3) Can I cut a COB outdoor LED tape light and still keep it waterproof?
Yes, but only if you reseal the cut end with the correct end cap and sealant, and fully seal any connector or solder joint.
4) Why does my outdoor COB lighting strip look dim at the far end?
Voltage drop causes that. Fix it by using a higher voltage system, thicker wire, shorter runs, or adding power feed points.
5) Do I need an aluminium channel for a COB Outdoor LED Tape Light?
It helps a lot. It improves heat handling, protects the strip, and makes the light line look cleaner and more even.

